I saw you in Kucuksu, I knew you by your eyes
I can't deny that I feel in love with you...

This song tells the tale not only of an ardent lover but also of Istanbul society in times long past. In Ottoman times, Kucuksu was a favorite meeting place - for encounters romantic or otherwise. The Kucuksu and Goksu streams are known as the "sweet waters of Asia", and the wide meadow between them was once the most popular picnic site in Istanbul. Accompanied by musicians, picnickers traveled to the site on horse-drawn carriages. After their picnic, they would go on rowing parties down the rivers. And, of course, people would eye each appraisingly - albeit with literally veiled glances.

Today, these rivers still run beside Anadoluhisari, but are now part of an altogether different social life. The veils were dropped long ago. Long gone too are the rowboats whose passengers exchanged coy looks as they passed one another. Instead, floating "restaurants" head from the waters of the Goksu to the Bosphorus filled with male and female revelers who party late into the night.

If you want to get the best view of Anadoluhisari (also known as Guzelcehisari), you should travel both by land and by sea. To get the best view of the neighborhood’s famous Bosphorus villas or "yali", you should first see it from the Bosphorus. From the land, the unique villas are hidden behind their high walls. These villas are under-appreciated aspects of our cultural heritage. However, if you approach by sea from Kanlica, you will first see the 18th century Hekimbasi Salih Efendi Yali and similarly 18th century Zarif Mustafa Pasa Yali. Next comes the Amcazade Yali. An ongoing battle between the owners - the Koprulu family - and the bureaucratic state has forced the "yali" - the oldest wooden Ottoman structure in Istanbul - to fall into visible despair and disrepair as it patiently awaits renovation. Its large hall or "divanhane", which still stand today, is home to matchless hand painted pencil etching decorations on its ceiling. Built in 1699 and covering a large area of ground, the Amcazade Yali may seem like a ruin but it holds an important place in history.

The area between Kandilli and Kanlica - the shoreline of Anadoluhisari- is home to the following important yalis: the Bahriyeli Sedad Bey Yali, Riza Bey Yali, Marki Necip Bey Yali, Manastirli Ismail Hakki Bey Yali, Koseleciler Yali, Talat Efendi Yali, Ilyas Bey Yali, Komodor Remzi Bey Yali and Riyaziyeci Izzet Bey Yali. The awe-inspiring Kibrisli Yali in Kucuksu is a must-see. This gigantic yali’s facade measures 60 meters across. But the yali is as famous for the lives of its inhabitants as it is for its size and grandeur. Stories about the yali - a great source for writers of literature - feature such interesting and colorful characters that each of them could inspire a whole novel. Its domed roof adorned with paintings and large ballroom with a fountain in the middle deserve to be seen. Kucuksu Kasri is another important historical address in this region. Sultan Abdulmecid commissioned Kucuksu Kasri from N. Balyan - the most reputable architect of the time. The kasir and its fountain are just one remaining example of those majestic times.

Still on the shore, right next to the pier, is another place worthy of mention. Even if no sign remains of it today, this place lives on in memory. Only ashes remain of the Yalim Restaurant that once held such an important place in the history of Anadoluhisari. The piano music and songs sung by Todori and Madam Taskin every night to welcome their customers are treasured as "unforgettable" memories.
The Anadolu Hisar (fortress) was built by Yildirim Beyazid to block the aid that came via the Black Sea to Byzantine. It has the distinction of being the first fortress to be built in Istanbul. The structure is now a museum. The surrounding neighborhood used to be a small settlement made up of humble, wooden buildings. There were rows of attractive wooden houses, especially along the Goksu stream. As with so many other beautiful things, these were destroyed by the passage of time, only to be replaced by structures built to fulfill the needs of modern life.

Today, Anadoluhisari is a settlement made up of a small market and homes that bring together a variety of architectural styles. As with most places along the Bosphorus, it offers plenty of surprises to curious visitors. As you enter the market from the side closest to the Goksu stream, the first place to catch your attention is the pier on your left. Nothing beats a glass of tea at the "kahve" (coffee house) next to the pier, particularly if you are blessed with good weather. It doesn’t take long to wander up and down the full length of the market. It is amazing just how many different products are for sale in such a small space. A pet food shop and a newsstand stand side by side, as do a butcher’s shop and a jeweler’s. The "muhtar" (public head of the neighborhood) is also located in the market. "So what?" I hear you say. Well, take a moment to check it out. Nazmiye Korkmazlar has been the "muhtar" of Anadoluhisari for the past 30 years. There isn’t much she doesn’t know about it, past or present. She spends a lot of time playing "okey" with friends from the neighborhood at the tiny "kiraathane" (place where men get together to play cards) at the corner of Pazar and Pazar Yani streets. At the entrance to Pazar Street stands another important location in the history of Anadoluhisari. Although it’s quite common to find families of artisans whose businesses date back 80-100 years, it’s a very rare thing indeed to find 4 generations of a family running the same market. Not every corner store has gone from selling kilos of soap and sacks of powdered sugar to Amoy soy sauce and Kuhne mustard. Oguz Market is a family-run establishment that has done precisely that. With their two stores, one on Pazar Street and the other on Kizilserce Street, they continue to put up a brave battle in the face of the growing number of BIMs, DIAs, GIMAs and such like supermarkets that have invaded the neighborhood. A small shop selling "yufka" (dough) pastry stands on the corner at the entrance to Pazar Street. The yufka is rolled out so thinly that it looks like lace.

Anadoluhisari is one of those places that makes up for its lack of food and beverage options with its remarkable view. After you pass the market, you should stop for a moment to show your appreciation for the Fatih Mehmet Mosque. A little further on, a tree-lined road heads off to the right. At the entrance, you’ll see a sign that reads "Guzelcehisar Café". This hill leads you to two establish-ments that overlook Anadoluhisari from above. One of these is the more "local" Guzelcehisar Café. This large venue has a fireplace and wooden tables. The uniformed waiters may not seem very excited about the prospect of finding you a table at this overcrowded café, but you can’t fault their service if you manage to grab a table as soon as one empties. There is a special section reserved for people who want to smoke nargile (water pipe smoking) in the bottom part of the garden. In the summer, you can sit on its large terrace. The view is very beautiful. The entire Bosphorus is spread out beneath your feet. The menu is extremely varied. On Sundays, they have a rich brunch for 20 million TL that consists mainly of breakfast items. While it may seem like a humble establishment, the prices are no cheaper than those at other cafes. A little further on stands the Otagtepe Restaurant/Café. This is a typical tourist venue. The waiters wear traditional outfits, the menu features mainly Turkish fare and there is a restaurant as well as a café. Otagtepe Restaurant is located at the "very top" of the area of Otagtepe. At the very least, you are guaranteed a spectacular view.

Those of you who don’t want to leave Anadoluhisari before enjoying a truly excellent meal should head towards Kanlica. Right below the foot of the bridge lies Lacivert, one of the interesting restaurants that have opened in Istanbul in recent years. You can sit at the edge of the Bosphorus watching the lights of the bridge sparkle on the water. This carefully decorated restaurant is open throughout the year, but you are sure to have a particularly good experience if you sit outside. Their menu features mainly Mediterranean fare. For the same prices as those at similar venues, you also get to enjoy its unparalleled view for free. If you have neither the funds nor the inclination to eat at an elegant restaurant, you can also have street food in Anadoluhisari - but street food with a difference. Perhaps the city has lost its cosmopolitan feeling of yore, but you can still find interesting places that bring together different cultures. One of these is Kaptan Kunefe. If you head in the opposite direction to Lacivert - namely, toward Kandilli - just after you pass Goksu, on your right stands this small, newly-opened shop. The owner, a Captain from from the Anatolian city of Gaziantep, only makes kunefe, a local Gaziantep dessert. Kunefe is what you get if you fill "kadayif" (shredded wheat) with cheese, cook it and then pour syrup on top. If, like me, you believe that it is worth tasting the wares of venues that serve only one dish, then enjoy a dessert break at Kaptan.

Thanks to the houses that have been built on its slopes in recent years, Anadoluhisari has gained a villa culture in addition to its more established "yali" culture. Today, its inhabitants include business people and journalists. People like the industrialist Ali Koc, academic and former politician Erdal Inonu and journalist Ugur Dundar now occupy the shoreline "yali"s. Architect Dogan Kuban and a well-known name from the nightlife scene Fahrettin Aslan also live here. Journalists Mehmet Ali Birand and Mehmet Barlas live on the slopes of Anadoluhisari. Although it is no longer living its heyday, life in this small, sweet Bosphorus neighborhood continues to be enjoyed in a variety of ways.

Perhaps the greatest joy is the fact that you are so close to the banks of the Goksu. As you head down from the ring road, you will see a cemetery that overlooks the Goksu stream. You can’t help but think that this must be one of the most peaceful places to spend your eternal rest. This peaceful atmosphere extends down to where the Goksu stream approaches the Bosphorus. Life here seems simpler and quieter than elsewhere. As you cross the bridge over the stream and head in the direction of the market, don’t make the mistake of ignoring the streets to your right and left. On your right is Kizilserce Street, which runs the length of the stream and has rows of houses on each side. There are two important addresses on this street. The first is the barbershop located right next to the Oguz Market. Owner Korhan Dillioglu was born and raised here. One by one, he has amassed a collection of old engravings and photographs and had them framed. They now hang on his walls to remind him of Anadoluhisar’s lost heyday. You can head to Dillioglu any day of the week for a haircut or a shave, performed with a smile and accompanied by nice conversation. Plus, a haircut only costs 4 million TL! Across the street from this charming barbershop is the Cafeteria Huseyin Bey. If you come here in the winter, you can warm your hands on the wood stove in the middle of the room and have a cup of tea or coffee as you watch the stream - or what you can see of it between the motorboats. However, if you come here in the spring or summer, you will be welcomed into what must be a lovely garden. If you want to sit in the garden that opens onto the stream, you will have to wait until the sun comes out.

On the other end of the bridge is Toplar onu Avenue which opens out toward the Bosphorus. Forget the usual concepts of space associated with the word "avenue" - this is a narrow, charming street. The Dere Fish and Dere Cafeteria seem to lean on the foot of the bridge. Coffee and tea are served at Dere Cafeteria. In the summer, tables are lined up along the length of the street. The restaurant, which serves fish, is located above the cafeteria and has a view of both the stream. In good weather, after a drink at this sidewalk café you can rent a motorboat from right in front and go on a tour of Goksu. Directly across on the opposite shore stands Yaka Cafeteria. With its large garden, it is located right at the point where the stream opens onto the sea Bosphorus. Here, you can enjoy a view of the many "yali"s - some large, some small. It is completely deserted in the winter. Luckily, spring will soon be upon us!

If you head down Toplar onu Avenue, you will reach the door to the Anadolu Fortress. On your left, the stretch of "yali"s begin, which totally obstructs the Bosphorus view. Whatever you do, don’t think this is the end of your journey! A little further on to the left is Riyaziyeci Street which opens out onto the Bosphorus. At the point where the street meets the Bosphorus stands Hisar Yali Café. It is a delight to sit here and have a little something to eat or drink. However, you will have to wait until 2004, as the entire building is being restored. This street holds another nice surprise: its post office. ‘The Post Office with the Best View in the World’ is a small, charming building. There is a large empty lot between two "yali"s, so the post office has a view of the Bosphorus. Make this one of the last places you visit before you leave Anadoluhisari. Not only will this be a lovely way to finish your trip but it will also allow you to send a card to your friends.

Dere Fish Restaurant
Toplar onu Cad. No.13
Tel: (0216) 332 26 09

Dillioglu Barbershop
Kizilserce Sok. No.9
Tel: (0216) 462 30 70

Guzelcehisar Cafe
Muhtesem cikmazi
No.1 Otagtepe
Tel: (0216) 462 35 30

Lacivert
Korfez Caddesi
No. 57 A
Tel: (0216) 413 37 53

Otagtepe Restaurant-Cafe
Kavacik Mahallesi
Otag Caddesi
Tel: (0216) 465 20 99